An Un-Japanese Tokyo

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⏱️ 3 min read (438 words)

"On August 19th, flying over the East China Sea, I marveled at my first time leaving the country. Departing Pudong at two in the morning, as we approached Japan it felt like meeting the rising sun."

On August 19th, flying over the East China Sea, I marveled at my first time leaving the country. Departing Pudong at two in the morning, as we approached Japan it felt like meeting the rising sun. Looking down at Mount Fuji from the plane, I would never have guessed it would be the only time on this trip I would see Fuji clearly.

Spring Airlines IJ002
Spring Airlines IJ002

Arriving at Narita International Airport, I spent a long time wrestling with a Suica card. To use NFC Suica on an Android phone you need either a Japanese model or a Pixel. Near Shinjuku I found a tempura donburi restaurant—my first taste of Japanese prices.

Tempura Donburi
Tempura Donburi

What struck me most was the workers on the train from the airport into the city—utterly hollow-eyed.

Meiji Shrine
Meiji Shrine

Meiji Shrine
Meiji Shrine

Meiji Shrine
Meiji Shrine

Meiji Shrine
Meiji Shrine

Meiji Shrine
Meiji Shrine

Train
Train

Kessoku Band!
Kessoku Band!

Shimokitazawa (lol)
Shimokitazawa (lol)

Houkago Tea Time jump!
Houkago Tea Time jump!

Livehouse (real)
Livehouse (real)

Meiji Shrine was quiet and elegant; it was there that we saw a miko priestess. At Shimokitazawa station we saw no Beast House, but did find the area where Kessoku Band hangs out. That evening at a yakiniku restaurant in Shinjuku we had the most delicious grilled meat I have ever eaten—I could have swallowed my own tongue.

The young man grilling
The young man grilling

The process
The process

Giant lobster
Giant lobster

Sushi
Sushi

So good I was speechless
So good I was speechless

Dessert, perhaps?
Dessert, perhaps?

Wagyu
Wagyu

Moutai on a Shinjuku street
Moutai on a Shinjuku street

After dinner we went up Tokyo Tower and looked out over the magnificent nightscape of the world’s largest metropolitan area.

Skyscrapers below
Skyscrapers below

EVA!
EVA!

Hard to photograph through the glass
Hard to photograph through the glass

This—is Tokyo
This—is Tokyo

At last, I made it to Japan.